Playing local Video content on the Wii U

qweborfA quick post on how I got the kids videos playing on the Wii U this morning. I’m running Ubuntu Studio on this computer, but the idea is the same even for Windows, Mac, or BSD. A simple HTTP Server, and mp4 video played through the Wii U Internet Browser.

From the Software Center in Ubuntu I found the server Qweborf, and installed it. Opening it up, I made a http directory on the Desktop, and chose it as the directory to serve. Then I dropped the files in there and started the server.

 

If you don’t know the IP of your computer look it up

$ ifconfig

eth0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr (your mac address) 
 inet addr:192.168.1.5 Bcast:192.168.1.255 Mask:255.255.255.0
 inet6 addr: (your inet6 address) Scope:Link
 UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
 RX packets:5679305 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
 TX packets:3703226 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 
 RX bytes:4521950937 (4.5 GB) TX bytes:9325905863 (9.3 GB)
 Interrupt:17

lo Link encap:Local Loopback 
 inet addr:127.0.0.1 Mask:255.0.0.0
 inet6 addr: ::1/128 Scope:Host
 UP LOOPBACK RUNNING MTU:65536 Metric:1
 RX packets:203480 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
 TX packets:203480 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
 collisions:0 txqueuelen:0 
 RX bytes:23289411 (23.2 MB) TX bytes:23289411 (23.2 MB)

Mine is 192.168.1.5 so on the Wii U, I open the Internet Browser and type

http://192.168.1.5:8080

and it shows the files. Click to play. Now, I found that mp4 videos worked so far. Most of my stuff is MKV from Handbrake. Open a terminal.

$ sudo apt-get install libav-tools
[sudo] password for user: 
Reading package lists... Done
Building dependency tree 
Reading state information... Done
The following NEW packages will be installed:
 libav-tools
0 upgraded, 1 newly installed, 0 to remove and 40 not upgraded.
Need to get 3,304 kB of archives.
After this operation, 9,396 kB of additional disk space will be used.
Get:1 http://ca.archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu/ trusty-updates/universe libav-tools amd64 6:9.18-0ubuntu0.14.04.1 [3,304 kB]
Fetched 3,304 kB in 11s (281 kB/s) 
Selecting previously unselected package libav-tools.
(Reading database ... 319257 files and directories currently installed.)
Preparing to unpack .../libav-tools_6%3a9.18-0ubuntu0.14.04.1_amd64.deb ...
Unpacking libav-tools (6:9.18-0ubuntu0.14.04.1) ...
Processing triggers for man-db (2.6.7.1-1ubuntu1) ...
Setting up libav-tools (6:9.18-0ubuntu0.14.04.1) ...
$

And then it’s just

avconv -i movie.mkv -c copy movie.mp4

I found anything with AC3 audio didn’t play. So I converted it to AAC. It takes a bit of time to transcode the audio.

$ avconv -i movie.mkv -c:v copy -c:a libvo_aacenc movie.mp4

Flash videos to mp4?

$ avconv -i movie.flv -c copy movie.mp4

That’s pretty much far as I’ve got.

Winterizing an Evinrude E-Tec Outboard (Binnacle or Concealed Side Mount Controls)

UntitledThis is available online in a few different forms. But like my camper winterizing article, I just want somewhere to display it quickly and simply. It’s just easier.

So I have an Evinrude E-Tec 115 Pontoon series outboard motor on my boat. It is crazy easy to winterize (if you remember the steps). If your mind is a little foggy, as mine is sometimes after fishing, you may forget. I do from time to time. Truth is, it is easy enough that I should do it every time the night lows get even close to 5 degrees celsius. I usually do this on the trailer with a water hose. You can do it at the docks too, but I don’t bother making people wait when I could do this at home. Anyways enough. Here it is.

wpid-20151017_162901.jpg1. Make sure the area around the prop is clear. Kids are inside. The motor should remain in idle but I won’t take chances.

2. Hook up the earmuffs to the intakes on the lower and turn the hose on all the way.

3. Walking back, I check there is water flow to the intakes and climb up on the boat.

wpid-20151017_163358.jpg4. Press the BRP symbol on the throttle (or advance the high idle lever if you have one) and then advance the throttle 1/2 the way.

5. Turn the key to start the motor. After the self check the lights will turn on. After 15 seconds the lights will turn off.

wpid-20151017_163415.jpg6. Move the throttle to idle. The lights will turn back on. Wait another 15 seconds and the lights will turn off again.

wpid-20151017_163532.jpg7. Push in the BRP symbol on the throttle again (or advance the high idle lever if you have one) and advance the throttle to 1/2 again. The lights will flash and the the outboard will run at fast idle and begin to fog itself.

8. After a minute or so, the motor will shut itself off. Turn the key off, turn the water off, and remove the earmuffs from the outboard. I usually tip the motor all the way down to make sure there is no water left in there. That’s it! another simple Winterizing task archived for next year. Fucking winter.

Using multiple DNS Servers on an OpenBSD Firewall

I run an OpenBSD firewall configured much like the tutorial at BSD Now. After setting up the encrypted DNS lookups I ran into a problem. Some of the devices in the house needed to use the Unblock-us DNS service. I had already setup static I.P. addresses in /etc/dhclient.conf so these two lines in /etc/pf.conf took care of the problem. $crypt is the I.P.’s of the computers that will use encrypted lookups on OpenDNS. This is a modification to the configuration shown at BSD Now. In /etc/pf.conf

# crypt is wireless router, server, my computer, and music room computer
crypt="{ 192.168.1.2, 192.168.1.3, 192.168.1.5, 192.168.1.6 }"

block out quick log on egress proto { tcp udp } from $crypt to any port 53
pass in on $int_if proto { tcp udp } from $crypt to ! 192.168.1.1 port 53 rdr-to 192.168.1.1

Now the wireless router, server and my computers use the OpenDNS encrypted lookups and the rest of the wired devices and my wife’s computer use the Unblock-us service. Why not default to OpenDNS? For me the only other devices in the house that are wired are media devices, and we have the wireless router (192.168.1.2) with a separate subnet (10.0.0.1) that now forces OpenDNS for the wireless.

Changing link colors in Twentytwelve

Twentytwelve for WordPress. When using child themes, you can’t just throw in a quick a, a:hover, and a:visited and be done with it. For a while this morning, I was having trouble getting the a:visited links to change color or change on hover when inside a post. After a bunch of Firebugging, nothing came up. This post had some answers, and I just changed the code to make it easier to change the colors quickly.

a:link,
.widget-area .widget a,
footer[role="contentinfo"] a,
.comments-link a,
.entry-meta a,
a.comment-reply-link, a.comment-edit-link,
.comments-link a, .entry-meta a,
.comments-area article header a,
.comments-area article header cite a { color: #996614; }

a:visited,
.entry-content a:visited,
.comment-content a:visited,
.widget-area .widget a:visited { color: orange; }

a:hover,
.widget-area .widget a:hover,
footer[role="contentinfo"] a:hover,
a.comment-reply-link:hover, a.comment-edit-link:hover,
.comments-link a:hover, .entry-meta a:hover,
.comments-area article header a:hover,
.comments-area article header cite a:hover { color: #E89B1E; !important}

a:visited:hover { color: #E89B1E; }

a:active { color: #E89B1E; }

That’s better. Now if I could just get back that wasted time.

Beer Caesars

So maybe my pictures don’t do it justice, but this is a damn fine drink. A slight variation on the ol’ Beer n Clam. Additions are pickles, pickle juice, pickled beans, sriracha sauce, sriracha vodka, vodka, pepper, bacon rim spice, really whatever a regular caesar would get. This is my favorite.

1 Beer (Coors Light for me)
3 Ice cubes
Clamato to top
4 Banana pepper rings
Splash of Banana pepper juice 1/2 tsp Creamed Horseradish

Stir that all up with a fork and have a vodka shot first. Delicious.

image

Rubyripper errors on PC-BSD 10.1.1

An easy one, but might as well document it. PC-BSD 10.1.1, Rubyripper 0.6.2_2. I was having trouble ripping some of my CD’s with Rubyripper. It would crash as soon as the ripping process started

% rrip_gtk2
/usr/home/myusername/Desktop/flac/Name of CD
/usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1661:in `gsub!': incompatible encoding regexp match (UTF-8 regexp with ASCII-8BIT string)
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1661:in `allFilter'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1638:in `tagFilter'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1599:in `block in setMetadata'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1598:in `times'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1598:in `setMetadata'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1481:in `attemptDirCreation'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:1387:in `initialize'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:2529:in `new'
from /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb:2529:in `settingsOk'
from /usr/local/bin/rrip_gtk2:285:in `start_rip'
from /usr/local/bin/rrip_gtk2:90:in `block in create_signals'
from /usr/local/bin/rrip_gtk2:1486:in `call'
from /usr/local/bin/rrip_gtk2:1486:in `main'
from /usr/local/bin/rrip_gtk2:1486:in `main'

Then nothing. The second line tells you which file to look at, and in this case helped. I opened /usr/local/lib/ruby/site_ruby/2.0/rr_lib.rb and went to line 1661 which reads

# replace utf-8 single quotes with latin single quote
var.gsub!(/\342\200\230|\342\200\231/, "'")
# replace utf-8 double quotes with latin double quote
var.gsub!(/\342\200\234|\342\200\235/, '"')

So this is all about quotes. My workaround is to remove quotes from the Album artist, title, and song names. Done and burned. I’m sure I could look further into why this happened, but it’s not my job man!

Winterizing again: Part 1, The Camper

Shit. It’s getting down to 0 Degrees C again. Time to do my duty and get the camper ready for another long winter. It gets down to -40 C here, so all the water needs to be purged from the system. I found a few cryptic notes from last year and I vowed to not do it again. I’m going to really give it a try and put this down on a page so it’s easier next year.

DRAIN

When I leave the campsite, I give the whole sewer system a good flush and then let it drain out as much as possible. Then pull out the camper and take it home. First, make sure the water pump is off. I get the camper level and open the water plug drain.  The drain plug for me is a 1/2″ square PVC plug. Get underneath and let ‘er rip. This should drain the water tank side of your system all the way to the pump. Have a beer. Get more of the stuff out of the camper. Let it drain. No drips? Put the plug back in.

My RV has a basic 5 gallon hot water system with 1/2″ hot water shutoffs on the input and output. I open the shutoffs to the hot water tank. Open the hot water heater cover of your camper and find the drain at the bottom of it, use a wrench and some swearing and take that f’n piece of plastic off and let it drain. I also open each hot water valve in the camper. They will gravity drain themselves for now. Replace the drain plug. Close the hot water valves. Close the hot water shutoffs. That’s it for the tank/pump side for now.

AIR

Next, you need an air compressor to connect it to the the 3/4″ hose water input (hookup water) of your RV. I have 1/4″ fittings on my air compressor. So what I need is a 1/4″ male threaded (air) to 3/4″ female threaded (water hose) fitting. My Co-op had them in the plumbing section. Same threads. If your quick connects for your air compressor at home are bigger (3/8″, 1/2″) then you need those instead, but it’s usually a 3/4″ hose fitting on the water side of the camper. You want to blow all the remaining hookup water out with air, but be careful. Before you connect these, I would be sure to have an air regulator that can regulate the pressure as most air compressors can pump enough PSI to blow out fittings in an RV system. (I am not sure if a RV water regulator works for this and I have not tried.) I have kept the pressure down with the regulator at around 35-45 psi.

Start the air compressor, run inside the camper, open the first cold water tap (I do the camper sink first). once it’s empty and done gurgling, close it, and open the next one (bathroom sink). Continue this (shower, toilet, Etc.) until all the cold water hookups have been blown out.

Open the shutoffs to your hot water tank, and then open the hot water valves one by one. They don’t really empty since the hot water isn’t full (for me, it won’t pump hot water unless the hot water tank is full. Check your setup, you may be able to bypass the hot water tank). Close the hot water shutoffs. Once that is done and there is no more gurgling, The air part is done and I remove the air compressor.

ANTIFREEZE

Unhook the input to the water pump from the tank with a wrench, and either put that hose in the antifreeze jug, or you might need a bit of hose to do this depending on the length of it. Once the antifreeze jug is hooked to the pump input, turn the water pump on. Go around the camper and open up each water valve one by one, Same way as you did before. Once each jug empties, put another one under. Once a valve is running out pink for a few seconds shut it off. This has also put a bit of pink RV antifreeze down the drains. Make sure a decent amount went into the gray water (drains) and the sewer (toilet). I let them both run for a few more seconds just to be sure. So, now the cold water is done.

For the hot water, if you have a bypass you can fill the lines with antifreeze like the cold water, or if you are like me, you have gravity drained down the hot water lines, and aired them out. Options. 1. You are done, or

2. Open the shutoffs and fill the hot water tank a bit with what antifreeze there is left from the pump. It doesn’t fill the hot water lines but they are aired out, and it puts some in the hot water tank.

3. Put the plug back on and fill it with at least 5 gallons more of RV Antifreeze and run the hot water taps till they are full.

I go for #2, and fill some of the tank. RV hot water tanks are pretty expensive in my opinion ($500-$700 CDN in my area). I did this method last year, and had no problems. Now for the long wait until we can go camping again… Next up for winterizing is the boat.

Overheating problems on an old ECS TF570 motherboard. Xubuntu 12.04 workarounds

Well this old motherboard of mine (ECS TF-570) has started to have some problems. When encoding videos with Avidemux, it was randomly shutting down. I run Xubuntu Linux 12.04 as my operating system. I have driven myself crazy troubleshooting hardware problems as software problems in the past. Luckily this time I thought hardware first since it is only happening when the CPU is loaded up. I was headed in the right direction from the get go.

I googled my way to this page, which really got things started fast.

$ sudo apt-get install cpufrequtils

$ cpufreq-info

For me it read

current CPU frequency is 2.4 GHz
hardware limits: 1000 MHz - 2.40 GHz
available frequency steps: 2.40 GHz, 2.20 GHz, 2.00 GHz, 1.80 GHz, 1000 MHz

This is while the system was encoding. When the CPU is not loaded up, it showed 1000MHz. I let an encoding run while I set the cpu. So using the next command, you can adjust to any value shown in your “available frequency steps”. I set it to

sudo cpufreq-set -u 2.0Ghz

Now, when you run the cpufreq-info command it shows 2.0Ghz (as long as the CPU is loaded up doing work!). Here is the wiki page for cpufreq. Now to display it. I looked for another page and installed the sensors side of things.

$ sudo apt-get install lm-sensors
$ sensors

This showed me

acpitz-virtual-0
Adapter: Virtual device
temp1:        +59.0°C  (crit = +70.0°C)

k8temp-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
Core0 Temp:   +59.0°C  
Core1 Temp:   +64.0°C

And higher, so I knew I was on the right track. it was shutting down when it reached the crit limit.

$ sudo sensors-detect

and said yes to everything

$ sudo service module-init-tools start

Lastly, a way to view the sensors.

$ sudo apt-get install gkrellm
$ gkrellm

I went into the preferences and checked off all my sensors so they would display. No more guessing WTF happened! You can also use widgets or conky (as shown at the bottom of this page) to display the sensor information, but this was the way I decided I liked it.

Installing an adjustable fuel screw on a 2008 Yamaha WR450F

You would think there couldn’t even be more that a sentence to this. Remove the old screw, and install the new one. Easy right? Yeah. From what I heard and based on your year and make of bike this one is either that easy, or really hard. Well yeah it didn’t go as smoothly as the video. It is SO worth it though! Do this mod. Just be nice to the parts, and keep everything in order. I’ll tell you everything I remember.

I have a 2008 WR450, and I haven’t spent too much time looking the frames and carbs of other years. But on mine, the carb is tucked way the F up there and there is not too much room. First of all, take off the panels and seat, then turn the gas tank to off and take the clip and the the hose off that runs from the tank to the carb. Then remove the tank. If you can see the boot on the front and the back of the carb and the back by now, then good! You will need some T-handles for this or long allen wrenches. Loosen them both and twist the carb till you see the bottom. If this doesn’t happen, then follow along with what I did.

I was changing the battery and the exhaust during this teardown, and also took the back fender off. If I would also have taken the rear shock out and took off the throttle cables, I could have completely removed the carb, but I wasn’t feeling that brave. A few beers brave, but no more. Removed the exhaust. Removed the battery. Took the coolant reservoir off, unplugged all the electrical connectors, pulled all the wires and hoses back, and pulled the whole back fender off.

At this point, I could twist the carb enough to see the bottom. There is a 17mm plug on the bottom of the float bowl (lower part of the carb) that I took off to see what I could see, and there was a jet in there. I put the plug back in. Not the jet I am looking for. The pictures in the manual are terrible. The fuel screw is right in front of that plug though, hidden under a type of aluminum rivet in the spot where you access the screw. I guess this was to keep people from messing with the air fuel mix, and to keep it california green. Well forget that. We need to take this rivet out. You need to get a screw like a small wood screw or drywall screw in there just enough, and then snap that rivet out. Mine was a real bitch, and every screw I put in there looked like it was going to break before the rivet came out. I was careful not to hit the rest of the aluminum carb as I wiggled it. Persistence, good wrench positioning and a few choice words and the little F’er finally popped out.

Next get a small flathead, one with about an 1/8 of an inch wide head. Inside there is a screw that looks like the gold one in the picture below. It was recommended to twist the screw in and count the turns first so you would have some idea of the stock setting. You need to get the screw, spring, washer, and rubber washer out, hopefully all as one. if not, it gets tougher as you need to fish for the parts if they won’t come out on their own. I guess I got lucky here. Once this is done, it is all easy street.

Now all there is to do is twist the new fuel screw in. I started at two and a half turns from all the way in, and moved it to 2 turns, I’ll probably do this later to tweak. Then put everything back together, and go for a rip! Yea, it always sounds easy, and before you know it, the day is half over. Note to self! Always take tons of notes and pictures and lay everything out nicely!

I hope this works out for you, I am really glad I got this done, I had been putting it off for almost two years! Wow! (Well having two kids, moving halfway cross the country and switching jobs also put these bike mods on the backburner) and also because I did not want to mess it up, and there was not much to go on from the net, except the one youtube I found.

So since the AIS has been removed, and now the fuel screw is done I’ve been ripping around the backroads and wooping it up. Now, to go looking for that grey wire!

Ripping Part 2 – Exact Audio Copy in Wine – Xubuntu 12.04

Well sometimes it takes a while to get back into a project. I started ripping our old CD’s back in 2010, and here I am starting it back up again now… After some consideration, I still like the accuraterip feature of EAC, plus it’s just easy to use. I guess I could use K3b or Soundconverter, but they don’t offer the same features, and I started this project using EAC. So let’s do what is being done.

http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/en/index.php/resources/download/

Download and run with Wine, at easiest that means left or right clicking it and run with Wine, or just navigating to the directory you downloaded it to and typing

wine eac*

This will install it, but it will error when you try to start the program. Next open a terminal in the directory you installed to. For me that was

/home/username/.wine/drive_c/Program Files(x86)/Exact Audio Copy/

and type

regsvr32 sql*

as shown here. Ok now the program will open, but there is a few things to sort out. I went through the wizard that guides you on first setup. It didn’t find my CD-Rom. Fine. It needs LAME. Right I remember this. Leave it on that screen and open a browser window.

http://www.rarewares.org/mp3-lame-bundle.php, I downloaded 3.99.5.

Extract the zip, copy the folder that is created to the EAC install directory, and continue the wizard. Show it where you put lame.exe. CDDB wants an email address, so I gave them one. I left the options unchanged for the naming conventions, I’ll change them later.

Like it says on the WineHQ page, I had change EAC Options -> Interface from “Native Win32 interface for XP/Vista/Win7” to “Installed external ASPI interface” and then restart EAC before Audio CDs would be recognized. I was kind of ready to give up here, and restarted a few times, and had another beer, but it started working.

So reopening EAC it finds the CD, and communicates with the accuraterip database, and opens the CD. Now to add the names of the song.

Database > Get CD Information from > Remote Metadata Provider

I picked my CD and continued. Now to set up the MP3 bitrate and naming convention before ripping.

EAC > Compression Options > Under bit rate change it to 320kbps (if you like, that’s just what I like). Select LAME Mp3 and let it clear the parameters. Last I set the naming convention.

As shown in this post, EAC > Filename > Naming Scheme. It used to be

%D (%C)\%N %T

but now it is

%artist%\%albumtitle%\(%tracknr2%) %title%

thats about it, EAC is now working for me. It is now 3am. Listening to a bit more James Low Western Front, ripping some old Buddy Emmons, finishing my beer and going to bed. Night. The stars don’t care.